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Writer's pictureClaire

Cornwall 2024: Entering Daphne Du Maurier's Frenchman's Creek and a wonderful sea shanty send off in Poldhu Cove

Over the course of this Cornish holiday I have been getting through my summer reads. I was excited to read Daphne Du Maurier's Frenchman's Creek as I had planned a walk here on our week in the Lizard Peninsula. The book was a delight following the impulsive female protagonist as she shuns her boring married existence to the excitement of a French pirate who hides in the Helford Estuary while he pillages the local population. It is utter escapism at its best that was made even better when we visited Helford to do the Frenchman's Creek walk.


Frenchman's Creek is actually a river that you reach when you walk through Helford. Helford is a pretty estuary town on the East coast of the Lizard Peninsula. We stopped in Helford after our walk to look around the beautiful fishing cottages and power up at the Shipwrights Arms with beautiful views overlooking the Helford River.


The walk itself takes you out of Helford following the Helford River across some headland until you reach Frenchman's Creek that brings you back to Helford. With lots of river side stops and woodland walking Digby (our Fox-Red Labrador) enjoyed this walk just as much as we did. Upon arrival we saw that the town was decorated for the Regatta that was happening tomorrow, and lots of boats were already moored in the river.


Tomorrow was our final day in the Lizard Peninsula, it was a beautiful day and the boys wanted one more beach day to do a spot of body boarding. The lovely couple we met in the Thai restaurant earlier in the week told us about Poldhu Cove so we decided to go there. Unfortunately this beach is not dog friendly in the summer months but there was a cafe that we stayed at while the boys went on the beach. Digby and I could walk up the cliffs either side, when reaching the top of one I realised that it could take you down to my favourite place: Mullion Cove, therefore making it even more my favourite place!


However Poldhu Beach Cafe is no ordinary cafe. Not only is there a great selection of food and drinks for young and old, spectacular hot chocolates for the former, they had outside events in the summer months. So we were treated to a wonderful sea shanty band that went on into the early evening, at a time when the dog can also enjoy the beach. It was packed and had a really great atmosphere. My dog met a new dog pal and lo and behold it was the couple we met in the Thai Restaurant, so we spent the evening with them and their friends. We exchanged numbers and said anytime they were travelling our way they should look us up, they would always be welcome.


I left the Lizard Peninsula feeling heavy hearted but full of joy. What a wonderful place in every way that it could be.


The picturesque village of Helford

Boats Moored in the Helford River

River mooring spot on the Helford River

Labrador taking a dip in the Helford River

Two boys walking in Frenchman's Creek

Walking alongside Frenchman's Creek

Two boys walking along Frenchman's Creek

Labrador playing with a rope swing in the woods

Family playing on a rope swing in the woods

The shipwright Arms in Helford by the Helford River

Poldhu Cove beach in the height of summer

Wonderful rock formations at Poldhu Cove

Surfers at Poldhu Cove

Bodyboarding fun at Poldhu Cove

Sea Shanty band at Poldhu Beach Cafe

Poldhu Beach Cafe in Mullion

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